Fashion Beats Football @ PFW

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

The next chapter of men's fashion weeks marry-go-round came to Paris, when it seemed like half of Europe's male population spotted in football shirts for the Euro 2016 championships. But nearly 50 fashion houses sure did a good job lifting the tone with some shows provoking as much attention, as the most heated games did.

Several general trends ruled the runways: oversized everything, sporty chic and total ignoring of the gender rule: we get it, hard to resist not sending Kendell Jenner, Bella Hadid or Alessandra Ambrosio down the catwalk, right?

Spring 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga

Spring 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga

If anyone had rided the oversise trend, it was certainly Balenciaga: for the debut menswear collection the fashion house introduced couple-size-bigger suits and coats, with a mild color twist, paired with daring boots. 

Spring 2017 Menswear, Lanvin

Spring 2017 Menswear, Lanvin

The best celebration of Lucas Ossendrijver's glorious decade of the storied Parisian house, was the highly anticipated Lanvin show itself. 

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

The waiting was rewarded: for spring 2017 the designer offered exaggerated sleeves, mixed stripes and mismatched proportions in splashes of color against grey-dominating palette. Givenchy’s show was all about camo prints, but Riccardo Tisci did put his own twist on the uniform look with bold patterns. 

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

Finally, Rick Owens presentation lacked his usual signature shock value, but designer didn’t need it: his ‘gender fluid’ collection stood out on its own, screaming his name in every piece.

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

As always, many new players emerged: Chinese designer Sean Suen among others, made his first Paris appearance with a loungy-feel collection. All in all, men’s fashion of next seasons is confidently striding into layered, andogyny area.

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

男性时尚周下一站来到巴黎,看起来像是2016欧洲杯足球赛上欧洲男性人口的一半。近50年,时尚界努力发声,引起尽可能多的关注,像是最激烈的游戏。

几大趋势左右着秀场:所有时装特大号,运动风,总忽视性别的规则:我们理解这样的风格,很难抗拒Kendell Jenner、Bella Hadid 或者Alessandra Ambrosio的走秀,对吧?

Spring 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga

Spring 2017 Menswear, Balenciaga

Balenciaga最爱走超大号风格:首次亮相的男装系列的时装品牌展示了几个超大号的上衣和外套,混搭温和的颜色,搭配大胆的靴子。

Spring 2017 Menswear, Lanvin

Spring 2017 Menswear, Lanvin

Lucas Ossendrijver辉煌十年传奇巴黎品牌最好的庆祝,是备受瞩目的Lanvin秀场本身。

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

等待得到了回报:2017春季设计展现了夸张的袖子,以灰色为主调混合随意比例的条纹和斑点。纪梵喜的秀走迷彩风,Riccardo Tisci的确运用了扭曲与大胆的图案。

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

Spring 2017 Menswear, Rick Owens

最后,Rick Owens缺乏他平时签名的惊人价值,但设计师不需要:他的“性别流体”作品集本身就很优秀,每处都有他的风格印记。

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

Spring 2017 Menswear, Sean Suen

一直以来都有许多新人出现:中国设计师Sean Suen便是其中一位,以变形风格在巴黎首次亮相。总之,男性时尚正不容置疑地向分层、中性趋势发展。

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

Spring 2017 Menswear, Givenchy

The Maker